Hookahs, often three feet high, use charcoal to heat tobacco, which is soaked in molasses or honey and mixed with fruit pulp. Up to three fabric hoses with disposable plastic mouthpieces allow several people to share. The smoke is filtered through water, giving it a smooth, sweet taste, say enthusiasts. While the practice in the U.S. has generally been geared towards cultural tradition, it has found a wider audience in recent years. From Evanston, Indiana’s Café Hookah to State College, Pennsylvania’s The Tall Shiva Hookah Lounge, the ancient tradition is experiencing a jolt of mainstream popularity.

In San Jose, Calif., a former coffeehouse and art gallery reopened in January as Hooka Nites Cafe. Owner Paul Zamot offers a smoking menu that includes traditional fruit-flavored tobacco blends (shisha) that incorporate fruit leaves, honey, and molasses for $10. But Zamot has also created more exotic offerings, such as “fresh fruit hookahs” where tobacco is placed inside hollowed-out fruit, such as pineapple or coconut, for $25 per smoke. The tobacco stays moist, notes Zamat, who says hookahs typically last anywhere from 30 minutes to one hour, and are generally shared among several friends.

The suit, filed in D.C. Superior Court, is the latest move in a battle that began in September when anti-smoking advocates launched a campaign in Washington to ban the smoking of cigarettes, cigars, and pipes in all D.C. workplaces.